Installing NOS

Installing a Nitrous Oxide System (NOS)


Installing a NOS kit is a simple process of installing the nitrous tank; a few injectors (which are also called nozzles); and a few solenoids; routing a few meters of tubing (or piping) from the nitrous tank and a fuel line to the solenoids, and the solenoids to the injectors; and then fitting a few switches to arm the electrical circuit that energizes the solenoids. If you are installing a Dry System, you don't need to run a pipe from your fuel line to the fuel solenoid as you don't need to install a fuel solenoid but you will need to modify your EFI system to provide the correct amount of fuel when you engage your NOS system. In my experience, the best way to install the nitrous system is to install the nitrous tank first, followed by the injectors and the solenoids, then connect your feed lines, and connect your solenoids to the battery. This will ensure that each of its elements correctly placed to operate at their full potential. If you are installing a Wet System, you must test the system and ensure that the fuel pressure to your fuel solenoid is constant and adequate. This may require that you install a high pressure fuel pump and/or a fuel regulator.

Begin by installing the NOS tank. The correct installation of the tank is important to getting the most out of your nitrous system. As we've mentioned in our basic nitrous system guide, the NOS tank has a siphon tube that extends from the release valve to the bottom of the tank. The siphon tube reaches the side of the tank on the opposite side of the label. Therefore the tank should be installed at a 15° angle, with the label facing up and the release valve facing the front of the vehicle. This will ensure that more of the liquid N2O is used before the siphon tube begins to pick up gaseous Nitrous Oxide, even under acceleration.

Another consideration is the pressure of the NOS tank. The pressure of the NOS tank will fluctuate as the ambient temperature fluctuates. This can cause problems with the correct calibration of your air/fuel mixture. To overcome this problem, you should ensure that the NOS tank is mounted away from heat sources (such as the exhaust system) and out of direct sunlight. You can also use a NOS blanket to insulate the tank.

You should install the injectors next. The placement of the injectors will depend on whether you're installing a system with a single injector, or a Direct Port System that requires one injector per cylinder. When you need just one injector, you should install the injector as close to the throttle body as possible. If you have a rubber inlet hose connected to your throttle body, you must drill a suitably sized hole to fit the injector, and bolt the injector down with a nut and washer on either side of the hose. If you have a cast aluminum manifold, you must drill a hole and tap a thread into the cast aluminum for the injector to screw into. If you are fitting a Direct Port System, make sure that everything that must be fitted to the intake manifold is in place and find enough space on the manifold to fit the injectors. The injectors must be fitted at the same distance from the cylinder head but try not to fit the injectors too close to the cylinder head. Also, wherever you fit the injectors, apply a little lock tight to the thread to ensure that the injector does not work itself loose. If you are installing a Direct Port System, you would need to install a distribution block between the solenoids and the injectors. The purpose of the distribution block is to distribute the fuel and nitrous between the injectors. Although it is not crucial, try to install the distribution block so that the tubes are more or less horizontal. The injectors for a Wet System has two inlets — one for fuel and the other for nitrous. You must connect the right tube to each inlet as indicated on the injector.

The next step is to install the solenoids. These should be installed away from the exhaust manifold but as close to the nitrous injectors as possible. The solenoids must also be installed slightly higher than the injectors to ensure that the nitrous and fuel do not need to flow upward as this will reduce the effectiveness of the system. The solenoids are electrically operated; therefore you'll need to run a few electrical cables to the solenoids.

Once you have your hardware in place, you can install the nitrous and fuel supply lines. It is best to route the tubing that carries the nitrous to the engine bay along the stock fuel line as this would be routed securely, and away from heat sources. The tubing should be secured to the vehicle so that it cannot be damaged by abrasion or by moving suspension and drive train parts. You can use nylon tie-wraps to secure the tubing to the vehicle but ½ inch Tinnerman clamps work much better. The tie-wraps or clamps should be placed no further than 18 inches apart. Whenever you route the tube trough a metal body panel, be user to use suitably sized rubber grommets to prevent the body work from cutting through the tube.

If you are using nylon tubing, you can use a sharp utility knife to cut the tube to the correct length leaving about 2 inches of free play at either end for possible flexing. Never cut the tubing too short and never cut the tube using a scissors or wire snips as this will deform the tube and make fitting the olive and nut quite difficult. Once you have cut the tube to the correct length, slide the nut over the tube with the threaded part facing the end of the tube. Never tighten the nut too much as this will cause the olive to compress the tube and will restrict flow through the tube. Then slide the olive over the tube. Secure the nut to the outlet on the NOS tank while keeping the tube in place and repeat the process at the other end where you must secure the nut to the inlet on the nitrous solenoid. The tube from the solenoid to the injector will require the same treatment. You can install the tube from the fuel solenoid to the injector as well but don't secure the tubing to the fittings on injector just yet — you will need to perform a few tests first. Also beware, the injector for a Wet System has two inlets — one for fuel and the other for nitrous. You must connect the right tube to each inlet as indicated on the injector. Next, tap into your fuel line using a metal T or Y splitter and fit the tubing that will supply fuel to the fuel solenoid and connect it to the inlet on the fuel solenoid.

The final step is to install the electrical circuit that will power the solenoids. The NOS solenoid must lift the plunger against the pressure that can be upwards of 800 psi in the system. A fair amount of current (amps) is required to accomplish this task so make sure that the electrical cables can supply the required amperage to lift the plunger. The electrical circuit should supply both solenoids with power and should incorporate a fuse, a micro switch fitted to the accelerator linkage, an arming switch and a relay. Start by disconnecting the negative terminal from the battery. This will prevent you from causing short circuits while working on the electrical system. Run a live wire from the positive terminal of the battery to the fuse box under the dashboard and on to a relay. Another live wire can then be run from the relay to the relay to the solenoids. This wire must carry sufficient current to activate both solenoids. You can fit the arming switch on the live wire between the relay and the solenoids as this wire will run close to the dashboard area; however it is better to place the switches on the earth wire. The earth wire will run from the solenoids to a suitable metal point on the vehicle's body but it is best to run the earth wire to the negative terminal on the battery. You can fit the micro switch to the earth wire as the solenoids would be placed close to the accelerator linkage.

There you have it, you're done. All that's left now is to test the nitrous system and ensure that the pressure to your fuel solenoid adequate, and then tune the nitrous system for best performance.

Source: http://www.custom-car.us/nos/installation.aspx

2011 Ford Mustang

The 2011 Ford Mustang is known for its incredible performance and impressive looks, and now there`s a new package that takes those qualities one step further - Mustang RTR. The dealer-installed package from Vaughn Gittin Jr., driver of the Monster Energy/Falken Tire 2011 Mustang GT in Formula Drift, and Ford Racing Performance Parts, is aimed toward a new generation of Mustang owners.

The performance upgrade comes with Ford Racing calibration with a high-flow filter and high-performance Falken FK-452 tires, which offer precise handling from five linear ribs and three-dimensional rounded blocks. Stiffer, wide steel belts offer greater tread rigidity, superior grip and high-speed stability, and high-tension carcass and high turn-up construction increase handling response and high-speed stability.

Other performance upgrades include:

•Unique Mustang RTR 19x9.5-inch wheels
•Ford Racing mufflers
•Ford Racing handling pack (performance-tuned dampers and springs)
Mustang RTR commands attention with unique styling that is highlighted by a chin spoiler with splitter and supports, rocker splitters, a rear diffuser and aluminum rear spoiler. A distinctive Mustang RTR stripe scheme adds more distinction. The interior showcases RTR-exclusive floor mats, shifter knob and emblems.

The package was designed and manufactured in partnership with Michigan-based Classic Design Concepts, which has a reputation for quality and style. The Mustang RTR package is available at select dealerships for the 2011 Mustang GT. A Mustang V-6 package will be available in late 2010. For more information on the Mustang RTR package, visit www.mustangrtr.com.

Taking the lead:
The introduction of Mustang RTR also plays off the success Gittin is enjoying in Formula Drift, with a significant lead in the championship point standings. Driving the Monster Energy/ Falken Tire 2011 Ford Mustang GT, Gittin took first place at the opening competition in Long Beach, Calif., and most recently placed second at Road Atlanta.


Read more at: http://www.modifiedcars.com/cars/30826/ford-mustang-rtr-package-2011-pictures

Akon's Lamborghini

Here is Akon sitting on the front end of his Lamborghini Gallardo. This is the second Lamborghini that Akon has to go along with his white Murcielago in an older post. It has 20″ black and chrome wheels. The chrome on the wheels matches the color of the car very nicely.

I cant tell what brand of wheels they are but they look good. They seem to have a bow shaped center to maximize the lip size. Akon is one of the few celebrities who really knows a lot about cars and always has very good taste.

More at: http://www.celebritycarz.com/category/akon/

New Ferrari P540 Superfast Aperta

Revealed: The new Ferrari P540 Superfast Aperta one-off

The first shake-down has been held at Fiorano of a very special one-off, the P540 Superfast Aperta, built for an American client. The car, the second in a new Special Projects programme created by Ferrari to meet requests from the most discerning clients and collectors to create truly unique models, is based on the 599 GTB Fiorano and was inspired by a Carrozzeria Fantuzzi-designed Ferrari built specifically for the 1968 Fellini film, Toby Dammit, itself inspired by one of the tales of Edgar Allan Poe.

The P540 Superfast Aperta's proud new owner, Edward Walson, son of John Walson, the inventor of cable TV, approached Ferrari in 2008 to produce a modern reinterpretation of the gold-coloured car in the film. 'I had always dreamed of designing sports cars,' Walson explains, 'and when I saw this film the decision came of its own accord: one day I would have ‘my' Ferrari.'

In accordance with the Special Project's approach to producing such individual one-offs, the P540 Superfast Aperta respects all existing international safety and homologation requirements and is thus road legal. The car was designed by Pininfarina and built in Maranello, and the client was directly involved in each stage of its development. As the 599 GTB Fiorano donor car is a coupé, considerable effort went into strengthening the chassis by using finite element analysis in development and the increase in weight was kept down to just 20 kg by employing carbon-fibre extensively. From the initial sketches to the final, road-legal car took just 14 months.

As the client took delivery of the car at Fiorano his excitement was understandable: 'This is the most special Christmas present of my life.'

Curiosity

This special car's colour was inspired by the film 'Toby Dammit', one of the three episodes of the film 'Histories Extraordinaries' made in 1968 based on stories by Edgar Allan Poe.

'Toby Dammit', the third of the three episodes, directed by Federico Fellini, with Terence Stamp Salvo Ran done and Milena Vukotic, based on the story 'Never Bet The Devil Your Head'.

The other two episodes, 'Metzengerstein' and 'William Wilson', were directed by Roger Vadim and Louis Malle.

Source - Ferrari

The Diesel Engine

The Diesel Engine:

The diesel engine was developed by Rudolf Diesel and was patented in 1892. Diesel engines are very similar to petrol or gasoline engines in that both rely on the Otto cycle to convert the chemical energy in fuel into mechanical energy and, in so doing, produce power. The major difference is the way fuel is delivered to the combustion chamber and the way the fuel mixture is ignited. Firstly, in gasoline engines, the fuel is usually fed into the intake manifold or the intake port where it is combined and mixed with the intake air, which is also called the intake charge. In modern diesel engines, the fuel is injected directly into the combustion chamber. This means that only the intake charge is compressed during the compression stroke and the diesel is only introduced once the intake charge has been compressed. Secondly, in gasoline engines, the fuel mixture is ignited by a spark plug, while in diesel engines the fuel is ignited by the heat from the compressed air in the combustion chamber. However, diesel requires a much higher temperature than petrol before ignition (not spontaneous ignition) can take place.

These differences has important consequences for the modification of diesel engines, especially when you consider the differences between diesel fuel and gasoline.
THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN DIESEL AND GASOLINE

For starters, diesel is a heavier fuel than gasoline. In other words, it contains more carbon atoms in longer chains than gasoline (technically, gasoline is typically C9H20, while diesel fuel is typically C14H30). Because it is heavier, diesel is much more stable that gasoline and vaporizes at a much higher temperature than gasoline. It also vaporizes much slower than gasoline and burns much slower. The result is that diesel requires a much higher temperature to ignite. Gasoline, for example can burn at temperatures of -40° F while diesel requires a temperature of at least 143° F!

The main point, however, is that diesel burns slower than petrol. This means that it will produce a steady pressure on the piston for longer. Consequently, diesel can be ignited at a higher temperature, and indeed can be allowed to reach the point at which it will ignite spontaneously. The interesting thing is that diesel needs a temperature of 410° F to ignite spontaneously but will ignite or burn at a much lower temperature of 143° F. Consequently, diesel cannot be introduced into the combustion chamber until the correct temperature is reached, or else it will pre-ignite. Now, to reach the required temperature, air in the combustion chamber must be compressed much more than in a gasoline engine, and because there is not fuel in the combustion chamber, the intake charge can be safely compressed without the danger of pre-ignition. Thus a gasoline engine will typically have the compressions ratio would of somewhere between 1:9 and 1:12 while a diesel engine will typically a compression ratio of around 1:25! And it is this higher compression ratio, as well as its higher vaporization point and slower burning rate and the fact that diesel has about 17% more energy density than gasoline, that makes diesel much more efficient than gasoline.

Now you're thinking why not use direct injection in a gasoline engine so we can increase the compress without pre-ignition? Indeed some manufacturers to employ direct injection on gasoline engines, but without the higher compression ratio because gasoline will burn too quickly at higher temperatures, hence the need to keep the temperature of the intake charge down in a gasoline engine. Remember, diesel burns at a slower rate than gasoline and therefore can be ignited at higher temperatures.
DIESEL ENGINE MODIFICATIONS

When it comes to modifying a diesel engine, you can apply the same techniques that you would apply to a gasoline engine, except for ignition system obviously as diesel engine has no spark plug. All the basics apply, i.e., increasing the engine displacement, increasing the engine speed, improving and increasing the air intake, and increasing the volumetric efficiency.

Nonetheless, there are a number of things to consider before attempting to modify a diesel engine.

* Firstly, components in the diesel engine are exposed to far higher pressures and temperatures than the components in gasoline engines. Therefore, diesel engines need to be more robust with thicker cylinder walls and stronger pistons. Should you decide to increase the displacement of your diesel engine by boring out the cylinders you should ensure that you improve your cooling system.
* Secondly, diesel burns at a much slower rate than gasoline; therefore a diesel engine will operate at a much lower RPM. This is natural, and getting the diesel engine to operate at higher speed will mean increasing the temperatures in the combustion chamber, which would require thicker cylinder wall and much a better cool system, and improving the cooling system is easier said than done because of diminishing returns!
* Furthermore, increasing the temperatures in the combustion chamber will increase the heat in the intake manifold, and will result in a reduction of air density. Consequently, we're dealing with even more diminishing returns! Still, maximum power will be reached at relatively low RPMs because of the slow rate at which diesel burns and will drop off dramatically at higher RPMs.
* Thirdly, increasing the amount of air ingested by the engine will require a proportionate increase in the amount of fuel injected into the engine. Thus bigger injectors, a higher fuel pressure will be required, or a remapped engine control unit (ECU) would be required. On some turbo-diesel engines, a remapped ECU has led to impressive improvements in power and should be the starting point in your quest to squeeze more power from a diesel engine.

Source: http://www.custom-car.us/basics/diesel-engines.aspx

Engine Building for Power and Reliability

If you're planning to do some serious modifications to a four stroke engine, you'd better do it right if you don't want to end up with an expensive pile of scrap metal. It's easy to slap on a turbo and run mild boost on a stock engine or even fitting a bigger turbo to an OEM turbo engine, but if you're looking for serious power, you have to rebuild the sub assembly to ensure that it can handle the additional power without disintegrating. Obviously you need to ensure that your drive train can handle the extra engine power as well, but in this section we'll discuss engine building for maximum power, starting with the sub assembly.
THE CYLINDER BLOCK

You've got to start by ensuring that your cylinder block is race grade. Even if you're just building a street race car, engine tuning would be senseless if the block is not up to the job. Start by pressure testing the block. If you have an air compressor you can do this yourself. Strip down the engine but leave the Wench plugs and oil gallery plugs in place. Fit the bare cylinder head to the cylinder block using new head gasket or one that's not too worn. Close all water opening off with steel plates. One of the plates must be fitted with an air line fitting that you can connect your air compressor to. Gradually increase the pressure in the block to 40 psi. Don't increase the pressure too quickly as a loose fitting Wench plug or a weak spot in the block could blow out can cause you serious injury. If everything is still in place, gradually increase the pressure to 50 psi. Now spray the block with a mild water/detergent mixture. Carefully check the block for air bubbles. If you see bubbles, either have it repaired or test another block. If you get no bubbles, release the air pressure and remove the cylinder head. Use a plug tap to clean the head stud and main bearing cap threads and chamber any stud hole that is not already chambered. This will prevent the thread from pulling up. Grind away any casting sag, especially around the main bearing webs, the sump pan deck, and the valley area of a Vee engine. This will prevent cracks from developing. Now remove all the Wench plugs and oil gallery plugs and have the block boiled and cleaned in a chemical bath. This will remove all rust and scale in the water channels, and the caked oil in the oil galleries.
THE CRANKSHAFT & CON RODS
Chrome-moly forged con rods
Chrome-moly forged con rods

The stock crankshaft and con rods are usually cast iron items that can be retained if the engine is not required to handle high boost pressures, high horse power, and high revs. Forged crankshafts and con rods are much stronger and are more suitable for high load, high rev engines. In either event, you should have the crankshaft and con rods Magnafluxed to check for cracks.

If the crankshaft has no cracks, check it for straightness. A crankshaft that is even 0.002in out of straight will increase bearing load and will be the cause of bearing failure. If your crankshaft is out of straight, you have two options – either have the crankshaft straightened or machine the crankshaft's main journals so that crankshaft rotation is true. However, straightening a crankshaft that is to be used for a high boost, high horse power, and high rev engine is a waste of time and money as the combustion pressure and inertia loads will reverse the straightening process. Machining the crankshaft journals will also weaken the crankshaft. Ultimately, replacing a bent crankshaft is your best option.

It goes without saying that all the crankshaft journals should be checked for roundness and size. The same goes for the big end on the con rods. The crankshaft, con rods, and flywheel should then be balanced statically and dynamically to reduce shock loading and vibration.
THE PISTONS
Forged pistons
High strength forged pistons

The next thing you need to consider is the pistons. Most OEM engines are fitted with cast aluminum pistons with a slotted oil groove. High performance OEM engines may be fitted with hyper eutectic cast aluminum pistons that have a higher silicon content. The higher silicon content makes the cast material much harder and more wear resistant, which allows these pistons to withstand greater temperature and pressure loads. This makes these pistons ideal for street racers. However, the higher silicon content also makes the pistons more brittle and prone to breaking under detonation. Thus, these pistons are not a good choice for forced induction applications where the possibility of detonation in greatly increased.

Forged pistons, on the other hand, have much denser and even harder than hyper eutectic cast aluminum pistons but are not as prone to breaking under detonation. Forged pistons also have drilled oil holes round the oil groove rather than a slot in the oil groove. This makes them the best option for high horse power, forced induction engines.

Pistons can also be either full skirt pistons or slipper type. The full skirt pistons are heavier but stronger and less prone to wobble. Needless to say, they would be the best option for any engine modification project.

Read More At : http://www.custom-car.us/basics/engine-building.aspx

How to Smoke Your Car Tail lights

How to Smoke Your Car Tail lights :

First off you'll need:
-Basic spray painting Skills.

-sand paper(500, 1500, 2000 grit. 500 only if the light is really pitted up. 2500 is optional. if you want an unbelievable smooth finish)

-Masking tape

-Ratchet with socket extension

-VHT Nightshades

-Orbital Buffer

-Application Pads/buff pads

-McGuire's Fine Cut rubbing/polishing compound.

-Dish Soap

-OPTIONAL....a spray can extender handle. If you want a little more control.

Step 1. Remove the lights.
Step2. Mask the lights
Step 3. You need to prep the lights. First use the 500 grit sand paper and sand that sucker good. get all the pitting and scratches out as best as you could. After that's done, I would clean it with a little soapy water. Just a Little.
Step 4. Then do the 1500 grit paper. Repeat the the cleaning then dry WELL.
Step 5. You're ready to paint!!Be sure you're not couped up in a small room cause chances are you'll pass out. VERY strong fumes
Paint with very light coats and let it dry in between. I did a bout 3 to 4 coats on mine..but they were light so its not that much. The paint runs easy so I can't stress to you enough...LIGHT COATS!!! Once you're all good and done with the painting, let it cure for a few days. That's just common sense.
Step 6. Depending on how good of a job you did with the paint will determine this step. If its good...fairly smooth, then you'll move to the 2000 grit. You will do a wet sand. Get something that you can put some warm water and a little bit of dish soap in. Mix it up a little bit to where you see some bubbles. Now take the lights and sand them good VERY LIGHTLY though. You don't want to take the paint off. Once you're done sanding, "rinse" it clean with a clean wet rag. It will look really shiny when wet if you did a good job. Once clean, DRY.

Now they look dark and hazy right? You're like "this SOB F*cked up my lights!" (that's what I thought when I did mine) Well now is the polishing stage.

Step 7. I found it a lot easier to buff the lights if they were mounted. Once mounted, apply some of McGuire's Fine Cut to an application pad on your buffer and go to town. Buff how every much you feel...remember, you can always buff more if you want, so do a little, then let it dry, buff it out. See how it looks. If it needs more then do more.
When I buffed it out after it dried, I used a cloth, thought it worked a lot better.

And that about sums it up! You'll have good looking at some Cheap..GREAT looking lights! I did the some thing for my fog lights.

I hope this helped. Please tell me what you think and how it turns out!
__________________

Read more at: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/5-0l-talk/103764-how-smoke-tail-lights-tutorial-requested-thread-please-read.html

The Four Stroke Engine

The Four Stroke Engine:

When you want to increase engine power on a four stroke engine, it is the efficiency of each stroke, particularly the intake and exhaust strokes, that you need to improve. Understanding the four stoke cycle of the internal combustion engine and how it produces power is important when you want to increase engine power. So let's begin with the four stroke cycle which is also known as the Otto cycle. If you're familiar with the four stokes of the Otto cycle feel free to head on over to power basics. Otherwise read on as this section is important to understanding engine tuning.

The intake stroke is the first stroke of the Otto cycle. During this stroke the intake valve opens as the piston moves from top dead center (TDC) to bottom dead center (BDC). The downward movement of the piston creates a vacuum in the cylinder that causes air/fuel mixture to be drawn into the cylinder. The intake valve usually opens slightly before the stroke begins and closes slightly after the stroke ends to maximize the amount of air/fuel mixture that can be drawn into the cylinder.

The volume of air/fuel mixture that is drawn into the cylinder, relative to the volume of the cylinder, is called the Volumetric Efficiency (VE) of the engine. Maximizing the VE of the engine is an effective method of engine tuning that we can use to increase engine power, especially as stock engines generally have a VE in the range of 85% while older engines have a VE in the range of 70%.

The compression stroke is the second stroke of the Otto cycle. Both the intake and exhaust valves are closed. The piston moves from BDC back up to TDC, forcing or compressing the air/fuel mixture into the combustion chamber of the cylinder head. The movement of the piston also causes turbulence which mixes the air/fuel mixture further, allowing more of the chemical energy in the fuel to be released during the power stroke.

While it is the fuel that stores the chemical energy that drives the engine, it is the air that allows the fuel to burn and release its energy. Too little air leads to a rich fuel mixture that does not burn completely and does not release all the energy in the fuel, robbing the engine of power and economy. Too much air leads to a lean fuel mixture that burns too quickly. When the air/fuel mixture burns too quickly, it spends its energy too soon and creates too much pressure too quickly. This can cause irreparable damage to the engine. The chemically ideal ratio of air to fuel is 14,7 parts air to 1 part fuel (14,7:1) and is referred to as the stoichiometric condition. However, the air/fuel mixture requirements of the internal combustion engine are influenced by RPM, engine load and temperature. Heat is required for fuel vaporization. Therefore, in cold start conditions, a richer mixture is required and at full throttle, or wide-open-throttle (WOT), a leaner mixture is required. This is why fuel injection has a major advantage over the carburetor; it can provide the correct air/fuel mixture under varying conditions.

The power stroke is the next stroke in the Otto cycle and is also the start of the second revolution of the engine. The intake and compression strokes require a complete revolution of the engine, while the power stroke and the exhaust stroke require another revolution; in other words, the four stroke cycle is completed over two revolutions of the engine.

Just before the start of the power stroke, the spark plug fires, igniting the air/fuel mixture which then burns in a controlled manner. This causes an increase in temperature and an expansion of the gasses in the combustion chamber, and ultimately increases the pressure in the combustion chamber. This pressure increases progressively and acts upon the top of the piston, pushing it down the bore to BDC. It is important to note that the pressure increases progressively until peak cylinder pressure is reached at approximately 12° to 14° after TDC. If peak pressure is reached at TDC, there would be too much pressure on the bearing and crankshaft, which would absorb a large amount of the power being produced.

The pressure pushing down on the piston and forces the crankshaft to rotate, converting the chemical energy in the fuel to mechanical energy. Unfortunately, the internal combustion engine is not very efficient and a lot of this energy is lost through heat that is absorbed by the engine, and lost through the exhaust. Though the heat energy that is lost through the exhaust can be used to drive a turbocharger so it can't be all that bad, can it?

The burnt air/fuel mixture is expelled from the engine during the exhaust stroke. The exhaust valve opens slightly before the stroke begins. With the exhaust valve open, the movement of the piston from BDC to TDC forces the burnt air/fuel mixture through the exhaust valve and out of the engine. Usually, the exhaust valve opens slightly before the stroke begins and closes slightly after the stroke ends, allowing the engine to expel as much burnt air/fuel mixture as possible. Any burnt air/fuel mixture or exhaust gasses that remain in the combustion chamber after the exhaust stroke will contaminate the fresh air/fuel mixture that in drawn into the cylinder on the next intake stroke, and will effectively reduce engine power.

The intake and exhaust valves can open slightly before the start of their respective strokes and can close slightly after the end of their respective strokes because the linear movement of the piston slows down dramatically to a dead stop as it reaches TDC and BDC. However, the opening and closing of the valves must occur at exactly the correct moment to ensure maximum engine power, particularly as the fresh air/fuel mixture coming into the cylinder just before the end of the exhaust stroke helps push out more of the burnt air/fuel from the previous cycle through a process called "scavenging". We discuss valve timing in our section on camshafts and cylinder heads; but in our next section on engine basics, we'll look at how to increase engine power.

More at : http://www.custom-car.us/basics/four-strokes.aspx

Fergie Hummer H2

Here you see Fergie leaning on her Hummer H2 sitting on 24″ chrome and black Asanti wheels with Pirelli tires. No complaints on the choice of wheels, they look good.

In the 2nd picture you can see the drop-down side steps with Fergie written on it. These are definitely a necessity for the short pop star to be able to get into her big Hummer.

Overall, good choice of wheels but the car isnt anything too special.

Read More At: http://www.celebritycarz.com/category/fergie/

Paris Hilton Bentley

Here is Paris Hilton posing infront of her christmas present for herself – Pink Bentley Continental GT customized by West Coast Customs.



The car was painted completely cherry blossom pink including the grill. They are staggered on 22″ rims with pink and chrome center and a deep chrome lip in the front and back.

The rims definitely match the car – all pink with chrome trim.

This Bentley isn’t as cool as Kim Kardashian’s Bentley done by Platinum Motorsport with the Invader Body Kit and Agetro rims. But I am sure this is exactly the car that Paris wanted.

My only real problem with this car is the smoked out tail lights, doesn’t go with this car at all.

Read More at: http://www.celebritycarz.com/2008/12/paris-hiltons-pink-bentley/

BMW X4 2011

2011 BMW X4 Features:


The 2011 BMW X4 will be based on the X3 platform, and like the X coupe concept pictured here, it will have two doors.

The U.S.-market 2011 BMW X4 will likely offer two 6-cylinder engines with efficiency-enhancing direct fuel injection and other gas-saving features. The base engine is reportedly a 2.5-liter unit, possibly a 3.0, with around 230 horsepower. An optional twin-turbocharged 3.0-liter should deliver at least 300 horsepower. Both powerplants will probably team with a 6-speed automatic transmission, but a new 7-speed automated-manual gearbox or an 8-speed conventional automatic could be available. BMW's "Efficient Dynamics" technology will be standard to enhance mpg.
Typical of this brand, the 2011 BMW X4 will come with four-wheel ABS disc brakes, now with electro-hydraulic actuation as another fuel-saver versus a power-sapping, engine-driven hydraulic booster. An antiskid system and traction control should be standard, too. Ditto front, rear, and curtain side airbags, the usual premium-brand conveniences and power assists, and likely 17-inch wheels.

Expected options begin with 18- and/or 19-inch rims; BMW's Active Steering, designed to quicken low-speed helm response; and the X6's Dynamic Performance Control, which works with the AWD to apportion power between the rear wheels as well as fore and aft. BMW's Active Roll Stabilization, designed to counter cornering lean, may be available. So, too, an "active" suspension with shock absorbers that automatically adjust firmness to suit the road surface. Also unconfirmed, but a strong prospect, is "smart" cruise control with automatic low-speed braking; it would be similar to setups already offered on certain Audi and Volvo models. Last and maybe least, the X4 is sure to list an optional navigation system tied to BMW's still-controversial iDrive infotainment systems controller.

Read More : http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2011-bmw-x41.htm

Volvo S60

Vehicle Highlights

The 2011 Volvo S60 is redesigned, with freshened styling, more power, and new features. This premium-midsize car comes in a single T6 trim level with standard all-wheel drive. Its sole powertrain teams a 300-horsepower turbocharged 3.0-liter inline 6-cylinder engine with a 6-speed automatic transmission. This replaces turbocharged 5-cylinder engines of 208 and 257 horsepower. Available safety features include ABS, traction control, antiskid system, curtain-side airbags, and front-side airbags. Blind-spot alert and lane-departure warning are available. Volvo's City Safety is standard. It automatically activates the brakes at low speeds to avoid or reduce the severity of a rear-end collision. Newly standard on the 2011 Volvo S60 is Pedestrian Detection with Full Auto Brake. This system uses uses sensors to detect pedestrians who might step in front of the vehicle. If this happens, the system can apply full braking force at speeds up to 22 mph. A navigation system is available. We have not yet tested the 2011 Volvo S60.

Road Test :
Our road test for the 2011 Volvo S60 includes a full evaluation of the 2011 Volvo S60 from the inside out. We evaluate not only engine and handling performance for the 2011 Volvo S60, but also interior cabin and cargo space. Let our comprehensive road test ratings for the 2011 Volvo S60 help you decide if a 2011 Volvo S60 is right for you.

Read More : http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2011-volvo-s60.htm

New Mazda RX-7 2010

As 2010 Mazda RX7 we all heard rumors about a new 2010 Mazda RX7 being produce by Mazda, those RX7 lovers out there must be shaking with excitement, but still the question is will Mazda really release an improved RX7 or not? the answer is uncertain, base on a magazine interview on Mazda they say that they are definitely going to release a new revised rotary engine with more power and much more economy friendly in the early 2010, but they did not mention that the car would be a 2010 Mazda RX7, so it's really still uncertain to what car Mazda is planning to equip this new engine with, but if it is an all new RX7, Mazda 's really going to see a big impact on the market.

What we expect if it is a 2010 Mazda RX7, if it is then this car obviously won't be a luxury sports type, it would definitely be like its old self which is a mid price sports car that is ready to be modified and dragged, the 2010 Mazda RX7 will likely have a 18 inch wheels, rear spoilers, lower body kits, a firm competition suspensions, big disc brakes with ABS, traction control, definitely a 6 speed manual transmission and an optional 6 speed automatic with semi automatic transmission and it would be a rear wheel drive with a long-hood short deck proportion, and with an sporty nose.

They say the 2010 Mazda RX7 would be a rotary Hybrid, which makes a bit sense since their planning to make this new engine more economy friendly, but I prefer they don't make it a hybrid because this type of car usually are expensive there are other ways in making it an earth friendly car like equipping it with an equal or smaller engine but turbocharged. which would result in the same power but lower emission. 2010 Mazda RX7 car would probably look like those pictures shown.

Read more :http://www.chickmagnetstuff.com/2009/06/car-2010-mazda-rx7-car.html

Chevrolet Camaro 2011

Yet Another Chevrolet Smart car.The 2011 Chevrolet Camaro will enter production on June 7. Big news for the base 2011 Chevrolet Camaro is that power output from the 3.6L V6 will be increased to 312-hp (an increase of 8-hp) with a maximum torque of 278 lb-ft. The 2011 Chevrolet Camaro SS will continue on with the 426-hp 6.2L V8.


Click here to get prices on the 2011 Chevrolet Camaro.
Also big news for 2011, is that the Camaro will be getting a bit of a price increase… well not all Camaro models.
While the base Camaro 1LS remains unchanged at $23,530, the 2011 Camaro 2LT will get a price increase of $350 to $28,075. The 2011 Camaro 1SS will also remain unchanged at $31,795, while the 2011 Camaro 2SS will start at $35,145, also an increase of $350.

Read more: http://www.friendsmania.net/forum/used-cars-motors-latest-cars-2010/43470.htm#ixzz0quiMGp5u